Darjeeling Tea is famous the world over. And I don't say this because the place is one of my favourites but because I have actually experienced it. When I went to study in UK, there were sachets kept in the university coffee tables mentioned "Darjeeling Tea"; when I went to Melbourne on official trip, I saw Darjeeling tea sachets in the offices. In different hotels I have found the Darjeeling tea sachets. Darjeeling is barely 600 km from my native place - one night train journey or an hour flight from Calcutta. Last winter I decided to visit Darjeeling and a few places around it.
After covering the oceans in Puri, the plain lands in Chandannagore, a 4-day tour to North Bengal (areas in and around Darjeeling) was seen as "too much of an adventure" by many. When people shivered in the chillness of Chandannagore, the very thought of the Himalayas of Darjeeling seemed to add chillness to the air. Elders dismissed my travel plan as absurd to childish to foolishness. But the arrogant that I am, no words of discourage can play spoilsport. And the result was we (daughter, wife & I) boarded the train to North Bengal on the eve of New Year. Total duration of the tour was of 4 days. And all four days we would travel to three different places, each having its own charm and uniqueness. When I had planned it was a very lazy trip. Further iterations saw one thing in common - the trip became more and more hectic, by normal standards. We really pushed ourselves to our limits. I can safely say that we clubbed abound 20 days of trip into 4 days. And this is no exaggaration.
Our first destination was the Ramsai Rhino camp in the dense forest of the Dooars.
Day One: Driving through the Dooars
Our train reached NJP station early in the morning of 1st January, 2013. Happy New Year! As we took the footbridge we saw the orange sun. My meticulous planning about 3-4 months prior to the journey ensured all the taxi and hotel bookings were made well in advance. Driver, Babul, was supposed to come at the station to pick us up. He would be with us for the rest of the journey. His duty ends when he drops at the same place on the evening of Day 4. He was about 30 mins late in coming. That is understandable as our train arrived very early in the morning and he stayed around 20 km from the station.
The sight of the cottage impressed us. It was something we never stayed earlier but had always wanted to. We quickly took a shower in the hot water, brought in buckets and got fresh. The lunch was typical Bengali dish with fish. The speciality with the fish was that it was from the local ponds and water bodies that encircled the cottages. It was delicious, more so after we had to eat the iced fish in Bangalore for months together.
Hardly we finished the lunch, that we were informed about the elephant safari that would commence in a few minutes. We took a buffalo cart that led us to the place where elephants were kept. I expected my daughter to be tired after the overnight train journey, followed by around 4-5 hours of drive. But, she seemed to be bubbling with energy and was thrilled to see the elephants. We got on its back. Like the horse ride in Kashmir, the elephant ride was bumpy in the beginning. But once I got a hang of it, I could even click photos while the elephant is moving. Our aim was to spot rhinoceros and other animals in the forest. Heard that leopards were rarely spotted in that area. Honestly, I did not expect to see them. The journey was fun so far. What's the point expecting something and then feeling bad if it did not fulfil? We crossed a river. Suddenly the "mahoot" of other elephant started moving fast among the tall grasses in a particular direction, while his riders shouted "There's the leopard". The speed of our elephant increased. That was one thrilling moment, as we desperately wanted to catch the sight of a leopard. It was difficult to spot one in the huge grasses that stood as tall as the elephants. And then we spotted her just for a fraction of a second! One moment those glowing eyes turned towards us and the very next moment it fled and disappeared before my camera could capture the moment. She was actually chasing a deer and almost had her prey had we not come. Some people claimed to have seen the deer being chased by the leopard. We saw quite a few rhinoceros while we were
on the elephant as well as when we walked upto the watch tower. The rhinos have come to the water bodies and were drinking water as the last rays of the golden sunlight filled the area. It was a mesmerising moment. That moment is so pure. From the distance we could hear tweets of the birds as they flew back to their nests. The sky was without a speck of cloud. It was turning from blue to orange to dark blue to black. The temperature of the area plunged by a few more degrees. We put on some extra clothings. While going on the bullock cart, we had seen a lovely sight of a huge banyan trees sheltering tea plants. As night shrouded the area, the same place became so sombre. The air slowly became a more heavy. People stopped talking
much. Everybody was perhaps reflecting on the events. I got into my shell. I was trying to recollect whatever happened since morning, from the time we arrived at the NJP station till the time we climbed upto the watchtowers. Somehow, the glowing eyes of the leopard kept crossing my mind. There was something in them. I swear, there was!
much. Everybody was perhaps reflecting on the events. I got into my shell. I was trying to recollect whatever happened since morning, from the time we arrived at the NJP station till the time we climbed upto the watchtowers. Somehow, the glowing eyes of the leopard kept crossing my mind. There was something in them. I swear, there was!
The evening was not as lazy as I expected it to be. There was a dance performance by some tribes, who lived around the area. It was a memorable evening. The tribal beat reminded me of one of the scenes from my favourite movie "Aguntuk", directed by the award-winning director Satyajit Ray. As I tapped to their
drum beats, I again realised that music is that only medium that knows no boundaries. In the cold evening the area was pitch dark except the lights in our cottage. Dews glowed on the blades of the grass. The sound of the sticks, the hard beatings of the localised drum, the shrill voice and the dance moves of the tribal women filled our senses. For dinner, we had local poultry hen cooked with fresh herbs and vegetables and hot rotis (assorted bread) with green salad. What a way to end the day!
Temperature kept on dipping as the night progressed. Our cottage was made of bamboo and the likes. We got ourselves under thick quilts and switched on the room heater. My sleep was disturbed a couple of times at night and I could sense that it was freezing outside. Next day we actually go to Rishyap, a quiet hamlet in the lap of Himalayas. I was thinking if Dooars is so cold at night, what will it be in the Himalayas.
The bright glowing eyes of the tiger appeared in my dreams a couple of times.
Day Two: Rishyap is all about Kanchenjunga
I woke up very early as I had hit the bed pretty early the previous night. Took my camera and went to click photos of the place. It was peace personified. Hardly there was anyone around. The air was fresh and pure. Before 8 o'clock we were ready to hit the road again. Our destination was the small hamlet on the lap of the Himalayas - Rishyap. We reached there before lunch. The last 12 km or so to Rishyap was very treacherous. There was no proper road. It was a path strewn with stones and boulders. A vehicle came from the opposite side. Our skilful driver placed our vehicle at the edge of the cliff, where a couple of inches is the difference between life and death. We had to rely on him to take us to safety shores. It took us an hour to get past that bumpy path. Once we reached we found that the place had nothing much to offer except an uninterrupted and great panoramic view of the Kanchenjunga. Kanchenjunga is the third highest peak in the
world, after Mt. Everest and K2. In Northern Bengal people worship the Kanchenjunga peak and is held in the highest regards. Almost all of the tourists who visit North Bengal come here for Kanchenjunga and that is the primary reason why the small hamlet perched on the hilltop has gained popularity in recent times. We are so used to hectic tours that in the in the afternoon we got a bored as we had nothing else to so and nowhere else to go. The last 12 km was so bumpy that we did not want to travel on that again on that day. We basked in the sun for quiet some time. My daughter found a dog and some hens to play with. She loves to eat chicken so much that whenever she sees a hen she shouts "Chicken!". Then she found a swing to keep herself occupied. The days are short. So, by around 5, it was dark. Life became very boring after that as we
had to confine ourselves to the resort room. There was the TV which beamed some uninteresting programs. Outside it was dark and cold. We ordered food in our rooms. We wrapped ourselves with heavy woollen clothes and dived under the thick quilts. The room heater was on, but it was challenging to keep the room warm as the temperature outside never co-operated. The greenery, the thin population and ,not to mention, the altitude ensured that there was nothing like global warming in the area.
The next morning, my attempt to catch the glimpse of the Kanchenjungha as the first rays of the sun kissed her peaks was in vain. Despite the fact that I was at the right place at the right time (well before sunrise), the clouds had other plans. I prayed, but in vain. At around 8 o'clock the cloud cleared and the majestic peak stood with all the grandeur We took some snaps with her in the background before heading towards Darjeeling. However, I must say that my prayers did not go totally in vain. It was more than answered, but in Darjeeling.
The next morning, my attempt to catch the glimpse of the Kanchenjungha as the first rays of the sun kissed her peaks was in vain. Despite the fact that I was at the right place at the right time (well before sunrise), the clouds had other plans. I prayed, but in vain. At around 8 o'clock the cloud cleared and the majestic peak stood with all the grandeur We took some snaps with her in the background before heading towards Darjeeling. However, I must say that my prayers did not go totally in vain. It was more than answered, but in Darjeeling.
Day Three: Darjeeling, where modern world meets the ancient Himalayas.
One good thing about this journey was that we were able to start very early in the morning, despite the severe cold and a three-year old daughter. At 8:30 AM we found ourselves in the roller coaster ride again, this time we were going down the 12 km horrifying road. We were on time and zooming across Kalingpong town. Then our driver suggested that we touch Delo, a tourist point which is on top of the hill. I had read about it, so thought of having a look into it since we were very near to the place. We had to stop for a late breakfast, anyway. It has a great view of the surrounding mountains and the thread-like Teesta river that flows way below it. We had our breakfast. Surprisingly, the breakfast was unreasonably expensive. There was accommodation facility too. Overall, it was a good break. We roamed around the place. Having an ice-cream in winter and that too when you are in the Himalayan mountains is a thrilling joy. I first experienced it in Hrishikesh about 20 years back when I went there with my parents. Since then I developed a fascination for that thrill. In Kalingpong I experienced it again. This time I gave one to my daughter as well. She was
delighted and gladly posed for a few snaps, holding the ice cream.
Soon after we were on the way to Darjeeling. Just as we entered the city, we faced traffic jams. Our driver said, this has become a daily nuisance in the hilly town and why not! When these places were built, little did anyone imagine that one day SUVs and cars would flood the area. The romantic narrow roads have been gripped by the public and private transport. The city was full of one-ways. The city has grown, perhaps, out-grown itself. We cannot blame anybody. Like any other cities in India, or the world at large, this city has also got her share of modern amenities and have been influenced by the modern technologies. Darjeeeling may not be as romantic as she used to be, but she has her own charm. True, that here you cant hardly enjoy the Himalayas, something which is known for the serenity and tranquillity. But there are things that you can enjoy only in Darjeeling. It depends how one sees the city. I knew why I came to Darjeeling. And as long as I tick my checkboxes, I am not disappointed.
I had pre-booked the Darjeeling Tourist Lodge and so straight-away headed headed towards it. The room was very big. But we did not waste time in that room. It was already 4 o'clock and there were every indications that the dusk is not far away. We visited some historic restaurants and bakeries of the famed city. Sipped the exquisitely-made Darjeeling tea, while having hot sausages, dipped in mustard sauce. We bought small boxes of tea for friends and family. The city has a legacy and that is evident when you get under her skin. The architecture of the old buildings, the layout of the roads, the underlying culture had a subtle flavour of the colonial empire. The city might be crowded today, but there are ample signs and symbols that
indicates what a gem she was a few decades back. A perfect lazy vacation for some English gentlemen or some high official bureaucrats. That time tourism was perhaps not popular in India or among the Indians. As people found interest in exploring new areas and tourism gained popularity, Darjeeling became a sought-after destination.
It was very cold. But the hotel arrangement ensured that our teeth did not rattle once we got into our rooms. Had a good dinner and it was time to go to bed. There was one hidden fear that I kept within me and suppressed throughout the journey and it was what if there was a power cut during the night? No room heaters would work. And we dont drink alcohol. Fortunately for us, there was no such mishap. However, I could hardly sleep that night. And it had much to do about the next morning than that night!
Sunrise and sunsets have been my all time favourites. I guess I can hang upside down from a tree to catch a glimpse of the sunrise or take its photo. But on this particular day, for the first time in my life perhaps, I felt that I was witnessing another phenomenon that was way magnificent than the sunrise. Words cannot describe the full intensity and magnitude of it, however hard I try. I treasure it as one of the most memorable moments of my life and a morning that I wish I can be a part of more often!
I set the alarm clock to wake me up at 3 AM. But the excitement within hardly let me sleep that night. My sleep was constantly disturbed. I ultimately "woke up" at around 2:45 and began the process of armouring me for mission "Kanchenjungha during Sunrise". My wife was unwilling to go with our small daughter. So, I left alone. I put on as much woollen clothes as possible. Didn't want any cold air to come in contact with my body. I walked around a kilometre through the dark freezing road. It was scary too. The road was absolutely deserted. I reached the point where shuttle cars leave for the "Tiger Hill", the sight seeing point from where Kanchenjungha looks absolutely stunning during sunrise. I did not have to wait. As soon as I reached the point, a shuttle was about to leave and waiting for the last passenger. They found that last passenger in me! The SUV was packed. Everybody was covered from head to toe and understandably by more than one layer. And yet it was cold. After about 30 minutes of drive we came to the place. We had to purchase tickets and get into a building. I found myself on the topmost floor of the building at around 4 o'clock. A guide said that the sun would rise at 6:25 AM. That was more than 2 hours! He set our expectations on the magical phenomenon that we were going to witness. And he set is pretty high! Experiencing clouds during sunrise at Rishyap, I asked him whether people were able to see it yesterday. He answered in the affirmative. I, and surely the hundred others in the room, was relieved. But at the same time reminded myself that Nature is most unpredictable. I was able to witness a perfect sunrise at Kanyakumari (southern-most tip of the Indian peninsula) in the monsoon month of August, when the records showed that there was no sunrise for the previous seven days.
The room was not very brightly light. It had large window panes for clear view. Chilling winds blew for miles and hit on those glasses head-on. I dont think there was any heating system available in the room and even if it were, it hardly made any difference.
delighted and gladly posed for a few snaps, holding the ice cream.Soon after we were on the way to Darjeeling. Just as we entered the city, we faced traffic jams. Our driver said, this has become a daily nuisance in the hilly town and why not! When these places were built, little did anyone imagine that one day SUVs and cars would flood the area. The romantic narrow roads have been gripped by the public and private transport. The city was full of one-ways. The city has grown, perhaps, out-grown itself. We cannot blame anybody. Like any other cities in India, or the world at large, this city has also got her share of modern amenities and have been influenced by the modern technologies. Darjeeeling may not be as romantic as she used to be, but she has her own charm. True, that here you cant hardly enjoy the Himalayas, something which is known for the serenity and tranquillity. But there are things that you can enjoy only in Darjeeling. It depends how one sees the city. I knew why I came to Darjeeling. And as long as I tick my checkboxes, I am not disappointed.
I had pre-booked the Darjeeling Tourist Lodge and so straight-away headed headed towards it. The room was very big. But we did not waste time in that room. It was already 4 o'clock and there were every indications that the dusk is not far away. We visited some historic restaurants and bakeries of the famed city. Sipped the exquisitely-made Darjeeling tea, while having hot sausages, dipped in mustard sauce. We bought small boxes of tea for friends and family. The city has a legacy and that is evident when you get under her skin. The architecture of the old buildings, the layout of the roads, the underlying culture had a subtle flavour of the colonial empire. The city might be crowded today, but there are ample signs and symbols that
It was very cold. But the hotel arrangement ensured that our teeth did not rattle once we got into our rooms. Had a good dinner and it was time to go to bed. There was one hidden fear that I kept within me and suppressed throughout the journey and it was what if there was a power cut during the night? No room heaters would work. And we dont drink alcohol. Fortunately for us, there was no such mishap. However, I could hardly sleep that night. And it had much to do about the next morning than that night!
Day Four: Mesmerising morning, Toy train and Gondola ride
Sunrise and sunsets have been my all time favourites. I guess I can hang upside down from a tree to catch a glimpse of the sunrise or take its photo. But on this particular day, for the first time in my life perhaps, I felt that I was witnessing another phenomenon that was way magnificent than the sunrise. Words cannot describe the full intensity and magnitude of it, however hard I try. I treasure it as one of the most memorable moments of my life and a morning that I wish I can be a part of more often!
I set the alarm clock to wake me up at 3 AM. But the excitement within hardly let me sleep that night. My sleep was constantly disturbed. I ultimately "woke up" at around 2:45 and began the process of armouring me for mission "Kanchenjungha during Sunrise". My wife was unwilling to go with our small daughter. So, I left alone. I put on as much woollen clothes as possible. Didn't want any cold air to come in contact with my body. I walked around a kilometre through the dark freezing road. It was scary too. The road was absolutely deserted. I reached the point where shuttle cars leave for the "Tiger Hill", the sight seeing point from where Kanchenjungha looks absolutely stunning during sunrise. I did not have to wait. As soon as I reached the point, a shuttle was about to leave and waiting for the last passenger. They found that last passenger in me! The SUV was packed. Everybody was covered from head to toe and understandably by more than one layer. And yet it was cold. After about 30 minutes of drive we came to the place. We had to purchase tickets and get into a building. I found myself on the topmost floor of the building at around 4 o'clock. A guide said that the sun would rise at 6:25 AM. That was more than 2 hours! He set our expectations on the magical phenomenon that we were going to witness. And he set is pretty high! Experiencing clouds during sunrise at Rishyap, I asked him whether people were able to see it yesterday. He answered in the affirmative. I, and surely the hundred others in the room, was relieved. But at the same time reminded myself that Nature is most unpredictable. I was able to witness a perfect sunrise at Kanyakumari (southern-most tip of the Indian peninsula) in the monsoon month of August, when the records showed that there was no sunrise for the previous seven days.
The room was not very brightly light. It had large window panes for clear view. Chilling winds blew for miles and hit on those glasses head-on. I dont think there was any heating system available in the room and even if it were, it hardly made any difference.
Those 2-hours have been tough to pass. Pitch dark outside and some dimly-lit bulbs inside. Add to that is freezing cold and some irritating and irrelevant discussion by some.Once the sky started clearing, the crowd grew impatient and noisy. We were told that the peak of the Kanchenjungha changes it colours to various shades of red, crimson red, orange and yellow when the first rays of the sun fall on it. And all these happens in 90 seconds, before the white snow-capped peaks stand tall. It is impossible for me to narrate what it was like watching the changing colours. Within that 90 seconds suddenly the first crest of the sun appeared at the other end of the horizon. There was a big sigh from the big crowd that gathered as the sun rose. I removed my gloves and just kept on clicking and clicking and clicking! As I watched the Kanchenjungha and her changing colours I felt the vastness of our universe. How a planetary body which is thousands and thousands of miles away from us light up a
When I was back in the car I realised that I got a bit of frost bite on my fingers, which were bleeding and paining. As I was returning I found that the city was waking up. The crowd that we found yesterday while entering the city was nowhere around. I presume they are yet to have their morning cup of Darjeeling tea!
My wife called me...they were almost ready for our next mission - the Darjeeling Toy train, a world heritage. I had already booked the tickets. When we arrived at the station, the train was puffing. My daughter was very excited to board it. It blew thick smoke through its chimney and the customary shrill whistle. Wheels started rolling as the train left the station stealthily. The track is alongside the road. So, it caused mini traffic jams at places. People peeped out of their windows, craned their necks from the shops to catch the train
snailing through the roads. We passed by a monastery Even young and old monks were looking at us. It seems that a bride is passing by. And how many times you may have seen her earlier, you cant stop yourself from watching her again. Wherever the train passed through, it seemed that the city life took a pause. As I clicked the photos of the city watching us, I found people taking photos of us in the train. The journey has a touch of romance and heritage.
Our last ride was the Gondula ride. So many things packed into a single day! The Gondula ride was fun too. It was unique in the sense it was over the tea gardens for a total of 40 minutes. The tea gardens seemed to stretch till the horizon. Thousands of tea plants on the slopes of the mountains and our Gondula passed over them.
Then back to hotel to pick up our bags and off we were driving downhill and bidding the city a tearful goodbye.
My wife had initially resisted my plans to come to Darjeeling. She came to that place half a dozen times earlier and thought there was nothing left for her to explore in the city anymore. On the way back, she admitted, she was wrong. She fell in love with the city and wanted to be back again. As we were leaving the hills, I saw the setting sun. In the morning, the same sun rose with the cheer of the crowd and shone over the Kanchenjungha. Now, it is quietly fading behind some mountains. Tomorrow again people will gather at the Tiger Hills and watch the jaw-dropping phenomenon. Nature's cycle has been continuing for ages.
In some mornings in Bangalore when I suddenly catch a glimpse of the sun, I tell to myself that it must have weaved that magic on the Kanchenjungha; it has shone over the cottages and ponds in Ramsai Rhine camp; its has created the light and shadow on roads of the Dooars, it has illuminated the beautiful hamlet of Rishyap. In our daily hectic life we hardly have time to pause and look beyond our duties. I hardly remember having seen a sunrise in Bangalore, let alone a memorable one. It is only during the vacations that we set ourselves free, indulge our senses to embrace and lap up whatever comes their way and soak ourselves in the beauty of the surroundings.
Every such journey invokes a journey within. And it is the journey within that makes me a better human being, enlightens me...humbles me! These inside journeys always stay with me - when awake, when in dreams. These (inside) journeys incite me to hit the road the next time and the next time and the next...
Our last ride was the Gondula ride. So many things packed into a single day! The Gondula ride was fun too. It was unique in the sense it was over the tea gardens for a total of 40 minutes. The tea gardens seemed to stretch till the horizon. Thousands of tea plants on the slopes of the mountains and our Gondula passed over them.
My wife had initially resisted my plans to come to Darjeeling. She came to that place half a dozen times earlier and thought there was nothing left for her to explore in the city anymore. On the way back, she admitted, she was wrong. She fell in love with the city and wanted to be back again. As we were leaving the hills, I saw the setting sun. In the morning, the same sun rose with the cheer of the crowd and shone over the Kanchenjungha. Now, it is quietly fading behind some mountains. Tomorrow again people will gather at the Tiger Hills and watch the jaw-dropping phenomenon. Nature's cycle has been continuing for ages.
In some mornings in Bangalore when I suddenly catch a glimpse of the sun, I tell to myself that it must have weaved that magic on the Kanchenjungha; it has shone over the cottages and ponds in Ramsai Rhine camp; its has created the light and shadow on roads of the Dooars, it has illuminated the beautiful hamlet of Rishyap. In our daily hectic life we hardly have time to pause and look beyond our duties. I hardly remember having seen a sunrise in Bangalore, let alone a memorable one. It is only during the vacations that we set ourselves free, indulge our senses to embrace and lap up whatever comes their way and soak ourselves in the beauty of the surroundings.
Every such journey invokes a journey within. And it is the journey within that makes me a better human being, enlightens me...humbles me! These inside journeys always stay with me - when awake, when in dreams. These (inside) journeys incite me to hit the road the next time and the next time and the next...
